Insulating Timberline850, a Covid Project.

[RemE]

RemE....
I worked on it this AM, I ran a 450 temp burn in last night, and had a 100 degree gradient. Changed the exhaust from the box to the shield and ran it again, this time started at 165 as it looks like I am going to need a gradient map now that the Traeger is insulated. Pre-insulation 400 to 200 took 7 min ,insulated it takes 64.
With all probes showing an internal grill temp of 165-178 the infrared thermometer shows 83 -87 depending on where you take the temp.TheTraeger set to 165 the FB right side shows 173 , the left side shows 183. I don’t konw how I will be able to use “keep warm” if I can not set it to a temp below175....

Looks great, from that rear install I would put a big triangle in each corner to take that heat blast. Don't forget to insulate between the stainless and the sheetmetal back cover (even if it's the thin stuff) when replacing it as well.

Regarding keep warm. If you are around you could open the grill and dump some heat. Yes, the insulation holds the temp inside very well. On my last brisket, I was away when it was to hit 203 so I just shut the grill down and it coasted gracefully down in temp. Got home, transferred the meat to my cooler and rested it till we ate, 3 hours later. The meat was still very hot to the touch!

Maybe in colder outside temps, keep warm might be needed, the option is there, and +10F is not too far off really.

I am LOVING this brisket, my best one yet! I gave some to a neighbor, he and his wife said that they love brisket, have eaten it all over Texas, and that this was one of the best they've ever had. God Bless Matt Pittman, and his weekday brisket recipe!

 

[John S.]

I was worried about the air flow and heat retention on the back panel, I have some insulation from a welding mat, that might work it is <1/4... The back got really hot when I had the boxes in the vent holes , so the shields have insulation in the corners and under the shield on the bottom but not on the back as that would push the shield into the air flow...
Yes Matt‘s week day brisket is also my go to brisket recipe every one loves it....

 

[RemE]

iwas worried about the air flow and heat retention on the back panel, I have some insulation form a welding mat, that might work it is <1/4 the back got really hot when I had the boxes in the vent holes , so the shields have insulation in the corners and under the shield on the bottom but not on the back as that would push the shield into the air flow...
Yes Matt‘s week day brisket is also my go to brisket recipe every one loves it....

Just do what you can to insulate those corners, that is the hottest area in the grill. This and the other baffle's I made are all in play above 400F, I'm fearless now.

 

[RemE]

RemE....
I worked on it this AM, I ran a 450 temp burn in last night, and had a 100 degree gradient. Changed the exhaust from the box to the shield and ran it again, this time started at 165 as it looks like I am going to need a gradient map now that the Traeger is insulated. Pre-insulation 400 to 200 took 7 min ,insulated it takes 64.

Rereading this, where is this 100F gradient?

Regarding cook temps, I never cook high and then low. I reverse sear, cook low, pull food, go high and then sear to finish (with GrillGrates).

So I don't ever wait for it to come down in temp. But a brief open hood will quickly drop temps if needed if you did.

Also, when I shutdown, I open the hood, clean the hot grates, and leave it open so it cools down fast and can be covered as soon as shutdown is complete.

 

[John S.]

RemE..
When I had the boxes in the exhaust vents the Grill went over temp by over 100 degrees (I think that the boxes inhibited the air flow), I had set the grill to 450 and used the Infrared thermometer as well as the FB and the Grill was over 600. So I did a shutdown with the lid open... Then this morning I switched out the box inserts for the shields and made sure that I was not reducing the air flow through the exhaust vents, by cutting back the SS inserts to not block any of the exhaust ports, this seems to work (that was why I was concerned about the air flow).

Tonight I used one of the Traeger Recipe for TriTip (the one that calls for 500 for 15 min then 2x 4 min sear on GrillGrates), I got 489 degrees on the left when setting the controller to 375, the insulation keeps it warm in there. However I was able to keep my hand on the lid as the heat on the outside was < 100 over the entire lid.
Do you find that your grill runs hotter with the Insulation installed ?.

 

[RemE]

RemE..
When I had the boxes in the exhaust vents the Grill went over temp by over 100 degrees (I think that the boxes inhibited the air flow), I had set the grill to 450 and used the Infrared thermometer as well as the FB and the Grill was over 600. So I did a shutdown with the lid open... Then this morning I switched out the box inserts for the shields and made sure that I was not reducing the air flow through the exhaust vents, by cutting back the SS inserts to not block any of the exhaust ports, this seems to work (that was why I was concerned about the air flow).

Tonight I used one of the Traeger Recipe for TriTip (the one that calls for 500 for 15 min then 2x 4 min sear on GrillGrates), I got 489 degrees on the left when setting the controller to 375, the insulation keeps it warm in there. However I was able to keep my hand on the lid as the heat on the outside was < 100 over the entire lid.
Do you find that your grill runs hotter with the Insulation installed ?.

My grill temp setting is not linear at the lower temps, set 180F and FB shows 190F. Setting 450F matches Fireboard.

My left side runs hot as well, until I added the fire pot baffle.

The grill should not run any hotter as the controller adjusts feed rate to maintain the set temperature. But it will use less fuel to maintain set temps.

I love being able to put my hand on the hood, even at 500F!

 

[SpeedQuest]

My grill temp setting is not linear at the lower temps, set 180F and FB shows 190F. Setting 450F matches Fireboard.

My left side runs hot as well, until I added the fire pot baffle.

The grill should not run any hotter as the controller adjusts feed rate to maintain the set temperature.

I love being able to put my hand on the hood!View attachment 3028

Which FLIR are you using for your photos?

 

[RemE]

Which FLIR are you using for your photos?

Flir ONE for iOS, handy little thing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072J49BX7/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_1OpMFbW9APYEH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[John S.]

RemE;
Well the 1” rope finely came in and I think that I have now put this project to bed... Many thanks for your insights. So this came out to about 200 for a Timberline 1300
* 6x ceramic wool @ 23 =138 (with ca tax)
* Scrap SS Plate = 25
* 2x 6’ 1” Fiberglass Gasket rope = 31. ( used the second rope to insulate under / behind the grease channel).
* misc supply's = 15
On the plus side:
I feel that it made for a safer grill, you are not going to get burned, even at 500.....
Lower pellet burn rate, so in the long run you will save money
A more stable cook, more stable temperature
We need a SW update to allow us to start at 155 or fix the temp issue that they seem to be having....

On the minus side:
I am still trying to get below 180, the new insulation seems to be that good....
Traeger should have done this, I mean for 2K, they could have put this in for probably 1/2 the price and it would move the bar for all the other vendors, as well as further differentiating the product line.

We need Treager to put out a technical paper on grill design. Also especially in these times of Covid a customer forum where we could speak with marketing, product management and engineering.
back in the days when I was a product manager, we had these to improve our product, and went to ones from our vendors to get better base components....

Once again thanks for the help, as well as the original idea...
NB: the photo of the right side also shows the FireBoard ambient probe mounted about 2 inches from the Traeger pit probe....

 

[RemE]

RemE;
Well the 1” rope finely came in and I think that I have now put this project to bed... Many thanks for your insights. So this came out to about 200 for a Timberline 1300
* 6x ceramic wool @ 23 =138 (with ca tax)
* Scrap SS Plate = 25
* 2x 6’ 1” Fiberglass Gasket rope = 31. ( used the second rope to insulate under / behind the grease channel).
* misc supply's = 15
On the plus side:
I feel that it made for a safer grill, you are not going to get burned, even at 500.....
Lower pellet burn rate, so in the long run you will save money
A more stable cook, more stable temperature
We need a SW update to allow us to start at 155 or fix the temp issue that they seem to be having....

On the minus side:
I am still trying to get below 180, the new insulation seems to be that good....
Traeger should have done this, I mean for 2K, they could have put this in for probably 1/2 the price and it would move the bar for all the other vendors, as well as further differentiating the product line.

We need Traeger to put out a technical paper on grill design. Also especially in these times of Covid a customer forum where we could speak with marketing, product management and engineering.
back in the days when I was a product manager, we had these to improve our product, and went to ones from our vendors to get better base components....

Once again thanks for the help, as well as the original idea...
NB: the photo of the right side also shows the FireBoard ambient probe mounted about 2 inches from the Traeger pit probe....

Bravo! Nice job.

Regarding startup, odd, after the latest firmware mine is pretty darn good at being able to be started, set at any temp with almost zero overshoot.

I have tested long run at 165 and mine does get there.

 

[John S.]

RemE;
Well I took up your challenge as to getting a 165 cook temp.
I started with a new message when I started up the Timberline "Cold Weather Warm up" The general ambient temp here is 60, once the Sun comes up...
Then ran a 90 Min lid closed test set at 165 (no SS). I found that the Timberline is Rock Solid as to accurate temp on the Right, Comparing the Traeger Probe and the Fireboard Ambient Probe ( < 2 Inches different), while I still have a gradient of about 20 at 165 & 225 and 40 Degrees at 350
Averages were as follows:
Set point 165 Traeger 166, FB Rt 170, FB Lft 187, Lid 75, Belly 84
Set point 225 Traeger 223, FB Rt 223, FB Lft 243, Lid 96 Belly 105
Set Point 350 Traeger 350, FB Rt 344, FB Lft 380, Lid 104 Belly 129
Then I tried a Keep Warm with a heat dump (lid open)FB-R 173 FR-l 193

Looks like I need to come up with a baffle for the 1300...

 

[sharkbait094]

Hello! Just joining/catching up on the conversation from southern California. My Timberline 1300 was just delivered a few days ago. I owned a Pro 34 for 3 years prior. I have been scouring the internet for an example of a shelf mod (since before the grill arrived, having previously had the folding shelf on my Pro 34) and finally found yours today. That lead me to this insulation thread, which I find fascinating and am eager to try (especially before ever ruining the paint for the FIRST time). I have several questions and am glad to see such an active and current thread at the time of my curiosity. I am also glad to see that the smart controller is able to adjust to a different design to keep the temps where we want them and to know my 2yo and 4yo children will be safer, as the grill is on the patio where they often play (yes, we remind them often that grills are hot). Is there any risk of fibers from the insulation getting into the food? Anything you might do different on a shelf or insulation mod if you had to do it again? (I can start a second thread in the shelf section if you feel that more appropriate). I have access to a metal fabricator and was thinking of making a stainless steel shelf instead of wood - any thoughts on that? (I am a proficient woodworker, so I could more easily make a wood shelf, but thought stainless might fit in better with the look of the grill). Thank you in advance.

 

[RemE]

Hello! Just joining/catching up on the conversation from southern California. My Timberline 1300 was just delivered a few days ago. I owned a Pro 34 for 3 years prior. I have been scouring the internet for an example of a shelf mod (since before the grill arrived, having previously had the folding shelf on my Pro 34) and finally found yours today. That lead me to this insulation thread, which I find fascinating and am eager to try (especially before ever ruining the paint for the FIRST time). I have several questions and am glad to see such an active and current thread at the time of my curiosity. I am also glad to see that the smart controller is able to adjust to a different design to keep the temps where we want them and to know my 2yo and 4yo children will be safer, as the grill is on the patio where they often play (yes, we remind them often that grills are hot). Is there any risk of fibers from the insulation getting into the food? Anything you might do different on a shelf or insulation mod if you had to do it again? (I can start a second thread in the shelf section if you feel that more appropriate). I have access to a metal fabricator and was thinking of making a stainless steel shelf instead of wood - any thoughts on that? (I am a proficient woodworker, so I could more easily make a wood shelf, but thought stainless might fit in better with the look of the grill). Thank you in advance.

Welcome aboard the mod train!

Insulating a new grill will be easier, since the insulation is encased in metal not worried about fibers. The glass rope in the corners is exposed but I don't touch it and after a few cooks it's coated with smoke soot.

Regarding the shelf, best discussed in that thread for consistency. I prefer the look and feel of a nice thick walnut block but metal is always an option. My add-on made no mods to the grill, just bolts on. No fire issue, especially after insulating, but must be covered and cared for.

 

[sharkbait094]

Thanks! I will likely use a drill press to get the holes (if wood) nice and straight and take care to measure twice. I am trying to avoid drilling any new holes in the grill also. If I do all stainless steel, I will plug it into a CAD program before manipulating the sheet metal. I could also use 2x8s for the mounting location and still have stainless shelf. Decisions, decisions.

 

[sharkbait094]

Can you confirm that this would work? It looks the same, but way less expensive. And I'm guessing I would need 3 of them (5 ft x 24 in x 1/2) for a 1300. Two might be cutting it close or short.

https://www.grainger.com/product/UNITHERM-1-2-in-Thick-Ceramic-Fiber-54TP60