Seal liner detaching on Timberline 1300

[DarienJim]

Same for me...only 2-3 we're popping out from Day 1 (Christmas gift). I also got a new gasket from them, but will try spreading the pins out first as well.

I spoke to them on Tuesday and they are sending me a new gasket also. I am def. going to try and spread the cotter pins out before inserting.

I looked again on my door and to my untrained eye I think mine is one properly.

 

[John S.]

I have the same issue with the lid seal on my Timberline 1300 it is about 9 months old. I have pushed the retainers back in... will see how long they stay in....

 

[RemE]

I have the same issue with the lid seal on my Timberline 1300 it is about 9 months old. I have pushed the retainers back in... will see how long they stay in....

Mine popped out all the time during the 1st year, until I really got in there to understand why. It's critical for the free end of the clip pop open inside the sheet metal to lock like a toggle bolt.

 

[TraegerTL850]

I am one person. Darien is a city and my name is Jim, hence the name

got it thank you for the message I appreciate it Jim

 

[TraegerTL850]

I had this issue with my gasket as well, in the same area. The Timberline lid slightly slides a bit along the top seal area, which tends to pull on the gasket and can release the clips.

A new gasket won't likely fix this, but it is pretty easy to fix the issue. Here's two steps.

1- This is mainly to reduce the pulling in the first place. Apply a thin film of silicone grease around the door seal frame and also rub some into the gasket itself along that top edge. This helps a lot.

2- This is the key fix. The clips themselves are triangular in shape and once pressed into the mounting holes where they expand and are supposed to hold. They are somewhat light gage steel and can come unplugged like you are experiencing. Here is a sketch of a clip;
View attachment 3867
The Key to locking these clips in place is to expand them and insert them far enough to get the free end of the clip to pop open inside the hole. This absolutely locks the gasket and it won't pop out again. Once I nerded this out, used needle nose pliers to help me slightly shape the clips, and insert them so that the free end would lock. This fixed my gasket issue going on 6 months now so I'm confident that this is the permanent fix.

Good luck and keep us posted!

RemE okie dokie I will take a look at this and get this picture that you illustrated in mind when trying to insert it into the sheet metal slits. Have any of you had the problems of 1) screws for the front stainless shelf are to long for the bored holes in particular the bored threaded holes on the hopper side and 2) my lid when it closes seems to be tweaked a bit to the right side that is the right corner is not aligned with the bottom of the barrel when the lid is closed --- the lid does not sit squarely/or aligned on the barrel when closed
Thanks look forward to any response - I can get the silicon lubricant in a different brand at ACE -- I know the drip system is a weak point in the design the grease dripping's don't seem to want to roll forward into the drip trough in front... and the actual drip tray is a bit thin in my opinion my previous Traeger the IW650 had a substantial drip tray...hmmm

 

[RemE]

The shelf bolt holes are threaded rivet inserts. Some are straight thru design, some have a closed end. Mine are straight thru, test the depth on yours by inserting a wire like an open paper clip to see how deep the holes actually are.

If the depth is good, you can get a 1/4-20 tap and screw it into the insert to clear the threads, they may just be clogged with paint.

If they are in fact closed ended, get new shorter 1/4-20 stainless bolts that do fit. It's possible that the factory used the wrong insert.

My replacement drip pan is stainless and seems pretty solid, it drips well into the front channel. Personally I like the enclosed drip system, but I think the design is not perfect. It suffers at high Temps unless modified, something I've documented here in the threads.

Regarding door alignment. These Timberlines are really heavy, and some have found that one side or the other was actually bent, probably from shipping that went unnoticed. It should shut and seal perfectly, and be even on each side.