Hand-Made Thermal Blanket System.

[McWiggle-3]

Has anyone seen or heard of anyone making - fabricating a thermal blanket system for their Traeger that FULLY fits? What I am referring to is making one that covers ALL the way around the unit; not just the top, back & front. Poking around at all the websites that have them for sale only provide the same option; top, front & back. (I wouldn't want a house that was only insulated along the roof, the front & back; no side wall insulation!) Like a pattern for making a shirt or pants, couldn't the same be done for the grill?
I'm hoping to find or make something that will hook to the front lip of my Pro 575, wrap down & under the belly. Then it will come up & hook to the top; under the lid. The thermal material won't stop there but will continue to the far edge of the lid. Magnets will be employed to help keep the bulky/bulging areas of material in place; especially at the transition between the roof & lit opening. (Trying to reduce the use of nylon straps will provide fewer items that might melt. The side panels might be held in place using both magnets & a series of edge grommets on the side panels & main panel. High temp lacing could be employed. The fabric, insulation, & stitching will need to withstand at least about 600D F?
Thoughts?
What temp is the Traeger paint rated for? Some comments from blanket users have included issues of peeling paint. Horrors!!

 

[Slimpicker]

You have a 575, I insulated the bottom from the inside.
I took out that thin liner metal and used thermal blanket material and put it back, I've been running this for way over a year now and not even a hint of anything burnt or deteriorated.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZQPX7Q7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did the right side too

Just another one of my MODs to add to the list

 

[McWiggle-3]

Slimpicker. Thanks for your reply. I'm curious regarding your choice of ceramic fiber batting. It has a heat rating of about 2400D F. Could thermal fiberglass batting have worked instead? The stuff I was reading about has a rating of about 1000D F. (Wondering if there are different kinds of thermal fiberglass? If so, which type would be best?) I was interested in fiberglass vs ceramic because of the substantial skin irritant issues associated with the ceramic. The manufacturer was strongly suggesting one's PPE be worn for skin, eye, & respiratory safety. Apparently not nearly as much irritation with the fiberglass. Is that accurate?? Because of the lower temperature rating, would the fiberglass also be less expensive??
You also referred to "the thin liner metal" that you removed prior to insulating the belly pan area from the inside. Did I understand you correctly? If so, from where do you access it? Are the fire-pot & auger assy removed for access? Is "the thin liner metal" actual insulation or merely a metal baffle that provides dead air space for "insulation"?
You mentioned that you "did it to the right side too". That's the side panel between the stove wall & the hopper, correct? If so, was the non-hopper side wall insulated too? On mine, the non-hopper side appears to be of single-wall construction. Is that the same as yours?
Thanks for your time.

 

[Slimpicker]

Slimpicker. Thanks for your reply. I'm curious regarding your choice of ceramic fiber batting. It has a heat rating of about 2400D F. Could thermal fiberglass batting have worked instead?( I have no idea, I don't like fiberglass tho. )The stuff I was reading about has a rating of about 1000D F. (Wondering if there are different kinds of thermal fiberglass? If so, which type would be best?) I was interested in fiberglass vs ceramic because of the substantial skin irritant issues associated with the ceramic. The manufacturer was strongly suggesting one's PPE be worn for skin, eye, & respiratory safety. Apparently not nearly as much irritation with the fiberglass. Is that accurate?? Because of the lower temperature rating, would the fiberglass also be less expensive??
You also referred to "the thin liner metal" that you removed prior to insulating the belly pan area from the inside. Did I understand you correctly? If so, from where do you access it? (see pics below)Are the fire-pot & auger assy removed for access? (NO) Is "the thin liner metal" actual insulation or merely a metal baffle that provides dead air space for "insulation"? (YES)
You mentioned that you "did it to the right side too". That's the side panel between the stove wall & the hopper, correct? If so, was the non-hopper side wall insulated too? On mine, the non-hopper side appears to be of single-wall construction. Is that the same as yours? (NO, mine has a shield I insulated)
Thanks for your time.

held on by 2 screws

Again, 2 screws

 

[RayClem]

I have an Ironwood 885. Since the grill vents out the back, Traeger does not even sell an insulated cover to fit. Once cooler weather sets in, I am going to have to figure out how to keep heat in. I am going to try a couple of welders blankets wrapped around the grill to retain heat. It is going to be a challenge to do this without bocking the rear vents.

I hope to do the Thanksgiving turkey and the Christmas ham on the Traeger. Here in the Chicago area, the typical temperature at Thanksgiving is around 45 F, but about 25% of the time, it is below freezing and might even show. At Christmas, the typical temperature is 32F with a significant chance of below 20F. Thus, I will definitely need some insulation.

 

[MidwestSmoker]

I will give with some unconventional advice: try going through a winter of Traeger use without a blanket before deciding that you need one. I have used mine when the temperature is in the single digits without any issues. The pellet consumption was greater, but it wasn't all that much more. I am not sure the disadvantages of a blanket are worth the marginal savings in pellets.

So what are the disadvantages you may ask? Firstly, there is the issue of local hot spots created by the blanket insulation that can destroy the grill coating. You will have to constantly watch for this.

The other issue is how pellet grills are designed. They struggle to maintain low temperatures in hot weather as there is a minimum speed for the auger to ensure the fire doesn't go out. The grills work much better in cooler and cold weather as there is adequate heat removal for the auger to run normally and maintain a low temperature. If you use a thermal blanket, you are back to having the hot weather problem.